Fresh water reservoir leaks

[Bryce C]

It leaks out of these twist lids, there are two of them. When the tank is full enough it sloshes the water around enough while I am driving to come up through these lids and get all over the floor of the van. I've tightened them as much as I can. Have any of you experienced this? Have you sealed them with silicone or something that can still be removed later if there are service needs?

 

[Nate The Great]

Black RTV gasket maker will seal it and still be able to service it later..

 

[Bryce C]

Black RTV gasket maker will seal it and still be able to service it later..

Excellent, thank you!

 

[BIG WOOD]

would wrapping the threads of the lid in plumbing tape bandaid it until you find a permanent fix?

 

[Clean Rug Doug]

Is it leaking from vents in the lids?
When my float doesn't turn off the water flow, there is a fountain going straight up from each of my lids. Sometimes water sloshes out if I stop quickly.

 

[Dwain Ray]

would wrapping the threads of the lid in plumbing tape bandaid it until you find a permanent fix?

Is your fill valve leaking? Does your pump bypass to this tank? Is the tank over filling/ over flowing? My concern is why are you having these problems? If you seal everything up, will this tank over pressurize and cause more damage? Are you trying to seal the flange to the tank ? Or seal the lid to the flange? The problem in my mine as explained is that the tank is over filling from fresh water fill valve. But from what i can gather from these conversations, im not sure

 

[Bryce C]

There is no float valve in my tank, nor are there any vents in the lids. The tank has an overflow hose that is plumbed directly through the floor of the van, which water flows out of when the tank is filled to the top. This is the stock design of that generation of CDS 4.8.

All is fine, except the twist lids leak out of the threads when I am driving via sloshing and it leaks water onto the floor of my van. I think Nate's recommendation of black RTV silicone will work well. Unless I am missing something. With the overflow hose plumbed through the van floor I don't think the tank will burst if I seal around the threads of the twist lids, and then overfill it at some point.

 

[Dwain Ray]

There is no float valve in my tank, nor are there any vents in the lids. The tank has an overflow hose that is plumbed directly through the floor of the van, which water flows out of when the tank is filled to the top. This is the stock design of that generation of CDS 4.8.

All is fine, except the twist lids leak out of the threads when I am driving via sloshing and it leaks water onto the floor of my van. I think Nate's recommendation of black RTV silicone will work well. Unless I am missing something. With the overflow hose plumbed through the van floor I don't think the tank will burst if I seal around the threads of the twist lids, and then overfill it at some point.

The problem with silicone is youll be gluing them shut and if not impossible it'll be nearly that to open them again. Can you put an oring around the top? If so you can buy oring material and make one to fit. You.order the diameter of material and length then cut to size, glue the 2 ends together and presto you gotta custom oring gasket ( if that'll work in.this situation)

 

[Dwain Ray]

If the threads are really loose on the lid. Maybe just rap um with teflon tape. Another way is take a very long piece of teflon tape. Twist it into a tiny string, wrap the string around the threads of the lid and screw the lid on. or just add the teflon string like an oring to the top edge of the lid and have it seat on that

 

[Bryce C]

Good call Dwain-o, I'll go wild with some teflon around that thing. Probably wrap it thick around the threads and give it a twirly make shift o-ring at the very top. I'll let you know how it goes.

I installed the browning pulley on my water pump, it all works nicely. Thanks again for helping me source that. I bought a new mounting plate for the pressure pump too since the slow ancient leak on the old pressure pump had almost completely rotted it out.

 

[Bryce C]

I sealed my waste tank with Caswell Gas Tank Sealer epoxy. It was about $100 for a quart of the stuff, has to be the best epoxy ever. I bought an angled scraper that attaches to an extension handle and cut it to the right size, scraped the bottom 1/4 of the waste tank clean, presure washed it, used an acidic cleaning agent, pressure washed it again, let it get bone dry using a heater for a day, then poured the epoxy and used a paint roller with a short extension handle to spread it across the bottom and about 5 inches up the sides. Let it cure for about 36 hours before I put it back in use. I'll report back in 5 years and let y'all know if it really worked well. I have a feeling it is a permanent fix.

 

[Dwain Ray]

Good call Dwain-o, I'll go wild with some teflon around that thing. Probably wrap it thick around the threads and give it a twirly make shift o-ring at the very top. I'll let you know how it goes.

I installed the browning pulley on my water pump, it all works nicely. Thanks again for helping me source that. I bought a new mounting plate for the pressure pump too since the slow ancient leak on the old pressure pump had almost completely rotted it out.

Did it work? Truth be known, I've never had to do it myself, came up with the idea by thinking " how would i accomplish this task only using what i have laying around the shop". And that was all i could come up with

 

[Nate The Great]

Did it work? Truth be known, I've never had to do it myself, came up with the idea by thinking " how would i accomplish this task only using what i have laying around the shop". And that was all i could come up with

 

[Dwain Ray]

View attachment 133005

Dwaino isms, there like MacGyver isms for carpet cleaning

 

[Bryce C]

Didn't get to it yet. Had no heat and spent yesterday replacing the heater baffle actuator and heater core, and then doing a bit more insulation work. Turned out the baffle actuator was fine. My heater core was clogged. I felt the inlet and outlet coolant hose and they both seemed hot when I checked it during the week, so I went for the baffle actuator. The heater core was definitely clogged, not sure what happened the first time I checked it when the heat wasn't working. Whatever... Good timing to get my panel heat working.

I think I may go for Nate's recommendation. I already have the black RTV, and I bet I can get that twist lid off again if I need to!